Jolfa: The Armenian Quarters of Isfahan

Jolfa Neighborhood

Vank clock tower at night

Isfahan is widely recognized as one of the most important tourist destinations in Iran for its exceptional urban planning and magnificent historical buildings. The gradual evolution of Islamic-Iranian architecture is particularly evident in mosques like the Jameh Mosque, some of the finest examples of Iranian Negargari (somewhat of an equivalent to miniature paintings) adorn the walls of Isfahan’s palaces and places of worship, and the glory of the Safavid dynasty is represented by the stately mansions and palaces throughout the city. However, in the midst of all of this heavily Islamic art and architecture, a Christian neighborhood stands out for tourists and locals alike: The Armenian Quarters, known as New Jolfa or just simply, Jolfa.

This neighborhood with its churches and cathedrals, delightful cafes and restaurants, interesting trinket shops, and stone-pavement charm is bound to make for an enjoyable and lively evening. Before we get into all of that though, it’s worth taking a beat to talk about the history of this place and just how New Jolfa became what it is today.

Armenian People & Isfahan

A street in the Armenian Quarters at dusk
A Street in Jolfa

We have talked about this matter rather extensively in previous blog posts, so if you’re interested, you can read this article for a detailed account of how Armenians came to Isfahan. In brief summation, a group of Armenian people migrated to the city of Julfa (located in the northwest of Iran) during the Safavid’s war with the Ottoman Empire. By the 1600s, these people were ordered to move to a newly established neighborhood in Isfahan, named New Julfa, by decree of Shah Abbas the First.

Keeping in mind that under Safavid ruling, Iran was a Shi’a state, Shah Abbas allowed the Armenian folks to practice Christianity in their own -however removed- quarters. Plenty of churches, cathedrals, and monasteries were built during this dynasty, and to this date, Armenian people in Isfahan hold their religious ceremonies and reside in the Jolfa neighborhood, one of the largest Armenian quarters in the world. Shah Abbas’s decree was made for the city to benefit from the Armenians’ proficiency in commerce, so it was a win-win situation for all parties involved.

A street in the Jolfa neighborhood at night
A Street in Jolfa

Although it has become a well-trodden spot during recent years, the Armenian Quarters has retained most of its authenticity, as most of the businesses there are still owned by the native residents. There is something to be said about the historical houses in the area being purchased by outside investors and then turned into boutique hotels and café restaurants, but still, at least this way, it’s ensured that these significant buildings are renovated and maintained appropriately.

Places to Visit in New Jolfa

The interior of Vank Cathedral
Vank Cathedral – Interior

One of the most enjoyable things you can do during your stay in Isfahan is taking a stroll through the Jolfa neighborhood and taking in the atmosphere. While seeing the steeples, domes, and clock towers of the buildings from the outside is certainly pleasant, the interiors tend to be quite spectacular as well. Here are some of the most well-known churches in the Armenian Quarters.

It’s worth mentioning that the primary Christian force operating in Jolfa -and at large, in Iran is the Armenian Apostolic Church, and while there are a few Catholic and Protestant places of worship in the neighborhood, they pale in comparison to the dominant Apostolic presence.

The Vank Cathedral

The Ceiling of Vank Cathedral
The Ceiling of Vank Cathedral

This large domed church with its imposing clock tower has certainly become the most important church in Isfahan, both to the Iranian/foreign tourists and to the Christians attending to their ceremonies. The construction of the Holy Savior Cathedral -commonly referred to as Vank- started at 1655 AD, and by 1664 it was finished and in operation. The cathedral may not look like much from the outside, but once you get in, you can see some of the finest frescoes done by Christian artists in Iran.

The Holy Bethlehem (Bedkhem) Church

The interior of Holy Bedkhem Church
The Holy Bedkhem Church

Older than the Vank Cathedral, the Holy Bethlehem Church -otherwise known as the Bedkhem Church- is another fascinating site in the Jolfa neighborhood. This church was built by a wealthy Armenian merchant named Khajeh Petros in 1627, and contains some 72 paintings depicting Christian themes.

The Saint Jacob and Saint Mary Churches

The Saint Mary Church
The Saint Mary Church

The oldest surviving church in New Julfa is named after Saint Jacob. Being built in 1607 (very early after the Armenian population first resided in this neighborhood), it was meant to serve as a means to an end: A bare structure where religious ceremonies took place, without any decorations and trappings.

As the Armenian population grew, so did Jolfa, and the need was felt for a larger place of worship, befitting of this new thriving community. As such, another wealthy merchant decided to expand the church at 1613. He built the church all out of personal funds, and decided to name it the Saint Mary Church, where he was later buried in death.

Nightlife in Jolfa

A Jolfa street at night
Jolfa at Nights

After a day of exploring new places and learning about the cultural and artistic backgrounds of a city, one deserves a nice, relaxing evening, with good food, good company, and a good atmosphere. In Isfahan, you’d be hard-pressed to find somewhere with all of these qualities other than the Armenian Quarters. There are plenty of pleasant restaurants and cafes in close proximity to the historical sites in Jolfa, and locals and tourists alike often find themselves in the neighborhood whenever the opportunity arises for a having a night on the town.

Final Words

Also make sure to take a look at our other Isfahan blogs!

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